Sunday Mornin' Comin' Down

It was a beautiful day in the village, a nice Sunday. I worked on my afghan, read some of my book (I just started Anna Karenina by Tolstoy), and spent some time with the family and the neighbors. My high school English teacher is a magnificent package sender so we had a good time with all the chappies (Dubble Bubble) she sent this last time, watching our mouths turn different colors, making huge bubbles, and trying out all the different flavors.
Phenyo and her big bubble.

We kept trying to get a picture where we all had bubbles at the same time. Mine popped!

Then Margaret and Karabo played ball... at first they were playing with a grapefruit, but it landed on the ground so much, they switched to a netball.

For supper MmaDiapo cut up a HUGE pumpkin she picked at her farm today.

And then she made us a traditional dish that mixes pap (mealie meal porridge) with the pumpkin.
Yum!

From PST to COS.

Here's a little compare and contrast for ya. Pictures of the NGO/CHOP (Community Health Outreach Project) group then and now.

Then: August 2007, the very end of our PST (Pre_Service Training), right before we swore in as official volunteers.
Back row from left to right: Tom, Jim, Elisabeth, Justin, Brooke, Jed, Serena, Me, Chris, Keri, Erin, Jess, Nick, John, Maggie, and Craig.
Middle row from left to right: David, Nancy, Nathan, Ronda, Cole, Abby, Jennie, Rose, Jami, Wanda, and Virginia.
Front row from left to right: Gregor, Lupe, Megan K., Joyce, Kristy, Joey, Susie, Amanda, Lauren, and Jaceson.

And now, May 2009, COS Conference
Back row from left to right: Jed, John (who left in Novemeber 2007, but came back to hang out with us!), Nathan, Serena.
Middle row left to right: Keri, Erin, Abby, Jami, and Serena.
Front row left to right: Kori (APCD), Ronda, Virginia, Nick, Craig, Wanda, Rose, Tom, Justin, Me, Jess.
Very front: Jaceson, Matseke (APCD)

And because Gregor was taking his language test at the time..... Back row: Keri, Erin, Abby, Jami, and Serena. Front row: John, Rose, Wanda, Nick, and Gregor!
*Not pictured: Brooke... she had to work and we missed her!

COS Conference

Up until the COS Conference I had the idea of leaving in the back of my mind, I knew the end of my service was coming to a close, and my focus was on how to say goodbye to my friends here and finish up certain projects I have going on. Then there was the conference. THE conference. It was the first time both the Education and the NGO groups had been together since Swearing In in September 2007 and man, some things have changed since then. Is it possible to age ten years in the span of 2? Just curious. We had some brainstorming sessions, feedback sessions, and lots of time to focus on how far we've come. Some questions we were asked to think about?
*What South African food will you miss the most? My answer: Pap and beans, a good drop in center meal.
*If you could pack up one person from your time here and bring them home with you, who would you bring? My answer: Rejoice.
*What is one thing you are most proud of from your service? My answer: Making it work in my village, finding a place for myself, and becoming a true part of my family.
*What part of South African life will you make part of your permanent life in America? My answer: The idea that everything will be OK. Things get hard, there are struggles and challenges, but things will eventually work out... even if it's not in the way you expected them to.
*What South African word will you try to integrate into your American lingo? My answer: What, what.
*Craziest taxi ride? It's a tie.... one from Pretoria to Tzaneen when the driver played the Clarence Clemens Live album on repeat and all the windows were closed. Erin, Elayna, Jaceson, Virginia, and myself were all privy to hearing the song, "Strokin'" (the live version... at least 10 minutes long) at least 10 times and trying to breathe in stagnant air. AND the bus ride from Maputo to Vilanculos, Mozambique. 10+ hours sitting with boxes, fermenting tomatoes, a chicken, mealie meal, an empty cooler (that was threatening our lives), with a man we so affectionately named "barrel" sitting on a water barrel right in front of us. OR the ride back to Maputo from Vilanculos that involved rain, potholed roads like Swiss Cheese, a crazy driver, some near misses with koombis, stomach issues, and lots of laughing for about 12 hours.
*If you could choose any song to define your Peace Corps experience, which song would it be? My answer: "I Know I'm Not Alone" by Michael Franti and Spearhead.
*Who or what has made the biggest impact on you in your service? My answer: A lot of people... in so many ways too many to count... Rejoice, MmaDiapo, Maite, Ledile, Maite, Karabo, Margaret, Mma Modiba, Esther, Synett, Mogale, Loikie, SA-16 CHOP, Nick, John and Mary.... and more... including people I only had brief encounters with who helped me get to this point.
It was a time of reflection, talking and hanging out, and movies on the Hallmark Channel. The hotel we were staying in was pretty fancy with a spa, putt putt golf, a game room, heated pools, and lots of places for us to just hang out. Since we all parted ways I've been thinking more and more about making a plan for my last 3 months, finishing up all the PC paperwork I need to turn in when I leave, and also giving a little thought to where I may find myself when I get back to the States. This is a huge transition. HUGE. I'm trying to take things one day at a time....things will work out, they always do.
Craig, as our scribe, during a brainstorming session.

Ronda and Abby leading the feedback session.

Me, Ronda, Nathan, and Keri during the feedback session.

Keri, Erin, Abby, Jami, and Serena waiting for our flu shots.

My neighbors!! Me, Jenny, and Jaceson.

Sandy, Abby, and Jed-how we do teatime, 'cause teatime is the BEST time!

VSN and Pretoria

Any trip to Pretoria involves taking care of 3 priorities: Eating, seeing other volunteers, and having fun.

Megan (Education Volunteer SA-16), Katie (Education Volunteer, SA-16), Abby, Keri, and Megan at Tings and Times in Pretoria.

There is ALWAYS a visit to the Indian Restaurant... everyone has their favorite dish and it's nice to sit, eat, and talk in a quiet, relaxed atmosphere. This night was especially nice. Abby, Jess, and I sat and talked over Masala Tea.

The host is always really nice. A few months back he pointed out my dimple and told me that I had to keep smiling. This time around, I discovered he ALSO has a dimple... that's a photo opportunity right there, fo' sho'.

I'm one of the SA-16 representatives for the Volunteer Support Network. VSN is responsible for providing a listening ear and support for volunteers in country (we now have volunteers from 4 different groups- SA-16 to SA-19, 20 will be arriving in July), in addition to advocating for more attention to be focused on the mental health of Peace Corps Volunteers. It's been a really good group of people to work with. This is our whole group as of May 2009.

And this is the 2008-2009 Moetladimo Gang! Christy, me, Nick, and Zana... these are my closest volunteers and some of the best people I know to talk to and walk to the post office with.
Three very special things happened while in Pretoria this last time:
1)Melissa, the PC-SA Medical Officer, threw a braai at her house after our VSN meeting. There were enough volunteers in town for trainings, conferences, and medical appointments that I'm sure there were easily 50 volunteers there all at once. It was really nice to have a chance to all be together in a relaxed environment with GOOD FOOD.
2)While in PC transport to the bank and to medical appointments the new driver, Madala, pointed out the window and said, "There's Zuma." AND THERE WAS JACOB ZUMA, THE NEW PRESIDENT OF SOUTH AFRICA. He was sitting in the backseat of a Mercedes Benz catching up on the headlines in The Daily Sun (which is the only paper offered in Metz and close enough to a tabloid).
3)I spent a lovely evening talking and spending time with Ronda, Justin, and Abby before they headed on a plane back to 'Merica.

It Is Nice To See You So Happy, Mmapula

Dinamune (Jan), Kori, and Kenny (a regular Peace Corps driver)
While I was sitting at my "desk" in Kodumela this morning, while I was thinking out the longest To Do list ever, while I was trying to figure out how I should go about making a plan for my last 3 months in country, I heard a noise and looked up to see Kori, (my APCD-Associate Peace Corps Director- who is basically my direct supervisor on the Peace Corps side of things) and Jan (PA-Program Assistant) walk through the door. Whoa. It was quite a surprise. Site visit! They had driven to Limpopo from Pretoria yesterday and were traveling through my area to check in and see how things were going. As much as I could have been a little nervous... things went really well. Kori talked to Ledile about my work and how things were going with me around, Jan and I sat and talked about how were things were going from my perspective, and then we all met up and talked for a good hour and a half. I was asked a series of questions... how are things going with the other office? Are you doing okay with going from very little work to a lot all at once? How are you feeling about working with Kodumela? Do people treat you well, are you welcomed, is the work load something you can handle and filled with things you're interested in working on? After taking their photo and hugging them bye...Kori turned to me and said, "It is nice to see you so happy. I'm glad things really worked out for you." I am happy. I love my work. I love the people I work with. I love that after so many struggles, so many tries with my first organization, I am ending my service on such a high note, things are working out, and I am finishing with grace (that goes out to you, Judge).

16 May 2009 The D. The J.

So, two very good friends of mine, from back home in Austin, got married a little over a week ago... 16 May 2009 to be precise (hence the title). They got married in the evening, in their backyard, surrounded by family and friends, and let me tell ya', I wish I could have been there. I'm still working on the whole trying to be two places at once idea... still no leads.. but I'm still working.
While I was in Pretoria, I went searching for the most perfect "congratulations on your wedding!" card I could find.... and my search ended with that lady up there.
Mmapula: Excuse me? I was wondering if you speak Afrikaans?
CNA Employee: I do... don't you?
M: No, I don't... I was wondering if you could help me.
CE: Yes, yes, what is it you need?
M: Weeeeellllll, I'm looking for a card, for a wedding, that's in Afrikaans and I can't read any of the words.. can you point me in the right direction?
CE: Yes... they're all right here... (and she pointed at specific words like "bruid" and "bruidegom" so I could just search for those).
M: Thanks for your help!
later on...
M: Um, excuse me again? I was wondering if you could help me translate the card I picked out. See it's pink and flowery and has all this fancy writing.. its gotta say something good, right? Can you translate the inside so I can write that for my friends so they'll understand what I'm trying to tell them?
CE: Your friends don't know Afrikaans?
M: Uh, no.
CE: Why are you sending them such a card?
M: I was looking for one in Sotho, but it looks like your store is lacking in that area. I'm not even sure wedding cards in Sotho are even made.
CE: Oh! Yes, yes, I will help you.
So, for about 10 minutes we walked around the store. My new friend was translating, I was trying to keep up with her and remember the gist of everything, and then another customer, a little old lady who couldn't see very well, was following us trying to get some help.
The result? The translation went a little something like this: "It says, good wishes, um, I don't know that word, happy, love, you, life, hands, and lots of other words that sound really nice and exactly like what you would say to some people you know who are getting married."
Uh, thanks.
And I ended up helping the little old lady find the items on her shopping list.
Because the whole event... and it was an event... was so classic, so something that would happen, I asked if she would pose for a photo.
M: My friends in America will LOVE this!
When I went to print photos later on I printed her a copy and delivered it to CNA before catching a movie. She teared up and thanked me profusely... dragged me to meet her manager and to show him her photo..... totally worth a card in Afrikaans that I can't understand...
Happy Wedding Dominique and Jack! Love you guys and please know I was with you in spirit!

Besides Hot Chocolate, What Else Is Good About Winter? Um, Avos. Yum.

Tonight MmaDiapo gave me a treat... she had just come from her farm with avocados she'd picked. These are all from the second crop this season. The first crop was, according to her, "very, very wonderful". These aren't as big, but they're sooooooo good. Had one for supper in fact.

They're all bagged up so they can ripen. She's using a mealie meal bag to keep them in the dark.

Her harvest from one tree.

The big one is from her farm and the smaller one is from town.

Huge!

Memorial Day That Side... This Side? It's Monday.

I was awake at 6:30 this morning, but I didn't find my way out of bed until closer to 8. It's the way it goes... it's Monday... it's the first day back after almost 3 full weeks away... I took my sweet time. I took a bath. I washed my hair. I read a chapter in the last Twilight book... I took care of all my priorities.
When I got to Kodumela the whole office was quiet, nothing really going on. After talking to Maite for a few minutes, getting the scoop on how everything was going in the office: Mphoyane had her baby boy, they're starting to make ID's for all the sponsored kids, the internet wasn't connecting on her computer, I settled down at an empty corner desk and took care of some Peace Corps paperwork. The day was slow, but really good. Every time someone passed the door of the office Maite would yell, "This is OUR office! Mmapula has moved in! You can find her here from now on." And every time she left the office she would say, "Mmapula I am not leaving you, I am coming now now." (Which means she'll be back very soon). We had tea and half a loaf of white bread at the morning tea time and then at 3, for afternoon tea, we split a 1.5 liter bottle of Fanta Grape and the rest of the loaf with Collins (he spells it this way, but calls himself Collin). Collins said, "Mmapula, I have no problem with you possessing the ownership of this yellow room", and I was so happy... I'll be there tomorrow.
Maite and Collins. We laugh a lot.

Check out these poses!

On my walk home I ran into Salome from Madeira (a village down the road just past the hospital). She was carrying home all the freshly ground mealie meal she got processed at Kodumela.

And just as I was about to cross the tar road to home, I ran into Lerato (the far left) and her friends carrying empty cans from the shebeen home.

The Ode

A little over a week ago Wisconsin got one of its cheese lovers back and one of my favorite people/ Peace Corps Volunteers. Dear Abby. I am really going to miss daily SMSes, phone calls with no worries over airtime, finding quiet places to have pow wows, laughing hysterically, talking about how much we're not alike, but how much we love each other all the same, vintage cheddar and good bread, traveling and letting our bags explode all over whatever room we were sharing, hours and hours of public transport with a great companion, talking about life. Barberton was lucky to have you. South Africa and Peace Corps were lucky to have you. I am lucky to have you.

In class we learned how our ancestors turned on lights, they didn't use matches Mmapula!

MmaDiapo sifting rubbish out of freshly ground mealie meal.

After being on a taxi all day, struggling with all my bags at ShopRite when I stopped to get some groceries (um, of course the lady at the parcel check remembered me, who shows up with a big backpack and another bag to check? A Peace Corps Volunteer), and taking one of the last seats on the taxi to Metz, I had a big grin on my face when I opened the gate to my house. MmaDiapo was catching me up on all the news, funerals, travels, and how her farm was doing. Maite, Lethabo, and Karabo all ran over to welcome me back. Phenyo waved at me from the road and promised to stop by the next day.
When I was on the way to the post office, I heard feet running up behind me, and a few seconds later a little girl named Mokgadi slowed up beside me. We exchanged greetings, she asked my name, I asked hers, she asked where I was going, she walked me to the corner where she turned off. She turned off and two boys pushing a homemade wire car pulled up beside me, That car is beautiful! Did you make it? Yes? Wow! You have such talent! And they smiled big grins and offered it up to me.
The last couple of weeks have been a whirlwind, so many changes, so much information, so many goodbyes, some good bonding time.... lots of good. I went to Pretoria for a few days for some orthodontist appointments and a Volunteer Support Network (VSN) meeting. SA-16 Peace Corps South Africa CHOP/SCRP (NGO and EDU) groups spent a few days at our Close of Service (COS) Conference. I said goodbye to a few of my dear friends out of our NGO group (does that ever get easier?!). I got to visit Ga-Seleka, village home to Thato and Boipelo Seleka (aka Paul and Jess). Then to finish off the whole trip, I spent a few more days in Pretoria... back to the orthodontist, a meeting with good ol Melissa-PCMO (medical officer), and some movie watching.
It's good to be back. I feel more on my feet... it's nice to have my stuff around me, clean clothes (and "easy" access.. hahahaha... if buckets count..to clothes washing), I can blog again, I have a ton of books to read, I don't have to take taxis anywhere for a while!!!!, I need to start on all the stuff that needs to be finished by September, and after a couple of weeks of so many things being thrown at us about leaving, transitions, goodbyes, reports, service descriptions, friendships, rules, options, choices, and plans... the village feels normal... I feel more at ease. I'm soaking it all in, taking still shots of village happenin's with my memory. Is this because the end is near? Everything becomes rosy at the beginnings and ends of change? Because the end is near, I'm finally letting go a little more, focusing on things I want to remember?
A few nights ago, I think it was the last night I was in Pretoria (I had a dorm room all to myself and was really enjoying all the Twilight books), I had this very vivid dream that's stuck with me. I was sitting at the end of a very long table full of familiar faces. Conversation was flowing, people were chattering, there was lots of arm flailing and laughing. The whole dream I was sitting and watching, big smile on my face, taking in all that was going on around me. I was quiet, don't think I said a word, but was perfectly content watching all the action. For the last couple days I've gone back to that dream more than a few times. It shows two things I've been trying to put into words (for myself) for a few months now.... still not sure I can describe them well enough... but I have time to work on them, tweak their descriptions. Two important things all the same though. 1)I am very much looking forward to sitting and just talking, watching, and laughing with people I've sorely missed over the last couple of years.... and in the same breath I can say that it's going to be very hard to leave behind people I've gotten to know and love here. 2)There is no way I can put all of this into words... no accurate description. I used to think that I could explain it and if people didn't get it... THEY weren't trying hard enough, but now I KNOW it's that I'll never, ever be able to put the magnitude of all my experiences, heartache, loves, laughs, frustrations, and things that make me shake my head, into words. There's no way. Too many details make up each day, make up the adventure, make up life in general...In January I starting posting more pictures on my blog. Part of the reasoning for that was that I was tired of focusing on all the emotional parts of this and it was going to be easier on me if I just tried to focus on other aspects of my service. (and with a few entries, I just wanted to tell myself to stuff a sock in it). And then part of it was that I felt I was losing a grip on words. My English isn't that great... I've been a little out of practice... and my Sotho is less than desirable... but I mean descriptive words. How do I talk about Mokgadi? How I smiled to myself and welcomed her company on my walk? How do I put into words the immense gratitude I feel towards MmaDiapo? Rejoice? Maite? Phenyo? John and Mary? SA-16? Maite? Ledile? Thato? Mama Mable? Or how I'm pretty sad that 3 of my good friends from this experience left to go back to 'Merica a week ago? Or how tight I've become with the people who work at the Metz post office because they're not from around here either? Or how striking it was to see the movie Milk (really moving and I highly recommend a viewing) and then walk through the streets of Pretoria... greeting people who would avert their eyes when they passed me, greeting people who seemed shocked that I would acknowledge their presence, passing wall after wall after fence after big gate after extra security measures of razor wire and codes while I'm looking over my shoulder and slightly paranoid? Pictures help me remember all the little details I don't want to lose... all those words I can't come up with... and they help give a little glimpse into all of this... this being South Africa... Metz... the Phokungwanes... Kodumela ADP.... taxis.... cities/towns...travels... me... geez, and so much more.

The Peg. The Rich. The Mom. The Dad. The MmaMmapula. The Mpho. The South Africa.

In true Owen/Hair Family fashion... when I say I'm going to do something... I'm going to do it. It might take me awhile to get around to it, I might think a little too hard about it, but it will get done. And when it gets done, man, more often times than not, it turns out pretty OK. A letter, a present, and in this case... a blog post.
I am lucky. I'm not sure how to put that in more words... not sure how to string them all together and have them make sense, relay all that I'm trying to say. SO... I'll say it again. I got lucky. I am lucky. Something out there was looking out for me and I was born into a pretty great life. I've had options and opportunities. I've always managed to live in an environment where I could feel love and know what it's like to love and be loved. I've seen things that have blown my mind and have left me hungry for more. I've heard things that have made my heart sing... and at times it has hurt. This whole experience has been incredibly challenging (that's the word we're using at the moment). We all know this. It's been challenging, but.. but... but.....
I have things to make it a little easier, to soothe me. I have friends and family who send me packages and letters and text messages and emails. I have people who call to check in. I have a great support system here when it comes to all my PCV friends (damn, you guys are amazing). I have a pretty cool African family that loves and cares about me. I know I'm strong, I can do this, I have done this. It's good. There are rough patches and there are low points, but I always try to bring myself back to the center... right where I can look out and see all these comforts and loves.
This goes out to my parents... Rich and Peg. Mpho and MmaMmapula. The Owen's. They have given me a good life and I can only hope that I can pass on to others all that I've learned from them. I love you guys! Thank you for being right beside me through this whole experience.
The Journey to South Africa, when my parents came to visit.
(This was a HUGE trip... these are just some highlights)

In Metz Village:
We danced.
We washed.
We walked.
We talked with the neighbors.
The Mamas met each other.

We went to the office....
We took the office on a field trip...
To Blyde River Canyon
in the taxi to the Potholes
and to a fancy traditional lunch....
where the waitstaff and the chef wanted to get in the picture, too.

We went to Gopane and met my first African Family....
We went to Kruger, we toured Soweto, we visited a traditional Tsonga embroidery warehouse, we ate dinner with John and Mary, we ate at Wimpy, we locked the keys in the boot of the car, we ate Malva Pudding with custard, we laughed a lot, we got frustrated with the maps and the signs on the roads not matching, we tasted some wine, we tasted some cheese, we went to the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point, we visited the Cape Town Botanical Gardens THREE times and drank tea and ate scones,
and had chai tea and scones at a Tibetan teahouse, we stayed in backpackers, in flats, some pretty sketchy motels....
And some way fancy places (where we washed our clothes in the bathtub and hung them to dry on the balcony)

These people rock.

The Doctor Is In

After a lovely tour around Makotse and then a nice lunch at Galito's (a chain chicken place) in the Lebowakgomo taxi rank, Keri and I were off again. That night's stop? BDTJF, aka Beautiful Downtown Jane Furse, home to Tom from Lincoln, Nebraska, who is working on his second tour with Peace Corps. BDTJF is quite the happenin' place... lots of activity, lots of people, lots of taxis, and they just got a new Barcelo's (a chain chicken restaurant).
Good ol' Tom. What a fantastic host! We got a brief tour of his office, met all of his coworkers, and spent a nice evening talking, making supper, and catching up on our TV watching. It was really good to see his site, home, and office... nice to get a chance to talk to him and find out more about his life before Peace Corps.
Here's Tom at his desk in the room he managed to clear out and make into an office.
And here we are, posing and squinting in the sun, in front of his NGO's sign.
And, yes, our wonderful host provided us with a pretty wonderful, relaxing evening. Here we are in front of the TV chowin' down on baked beans, grilled cheese, salad, and corn on the cob!
Thanks for being such a good host, for always making me laugh, "getting it", working hard and making it through your service with grace, Kamogelo.. you, too, have made forever made a difference in your community and have had a profound affect on me.